Dexter Cattle on the Fanad Peninsula
A Donegal farming family is at the forefront of preserving a native cattle breed while producing meat of exceptional taste and quality.
Sam and Cathy Dill began farming Dexter cattle on the Fanad Peninsula in 2009. The Dexter is a native Irish cow that had almost died out due to the import of the larger continental breeds. The fat is marbled through the flesh, giving a melting quality to the meat.
Cathy Dill said: “We became interested in Dexter beef because it is such a delicacy yet is very much a growing market. And it was a way of bringing back traditional Irish beef. The Department of Agriculture was very supportive when we started out. Our first calf was born here in Fanad in 2010 and we now have a herd of 160.”
This weekend the couple hosted the annual gathering of the Northern Ireland Dexter Society. Around 50 members enjoyed lunch at Rathmullan House followed by a visit to the herd. Everyone then went to the family home near Kerrykeel for dessert and refreshments. There was a collection for Our Lady’s Hospital for Sick Children in Crumlin.
Guests travelled from parts of Donegal, Northern Ireland and as far away as Tipperary. Among the Dexter enthusiasts was Deirdre Hilton. Ms Hilton recently received an MBE for her conservation work in preserving the Dexter cow and is a founding member of the society.
Ms Hilton told Donegal Now: “At one time these cows sustained lots of families in Ireland. They were small enough to be brought into the house years ago when people didn’t have land. The other thing about them is that they provide good milk as well as beef. Then with the famine and with bigger breeds being brought in from the continent native cattle became very rare. They would probably have died out altogether but for the work of the Pure Breed Survival Trust.
“When we started the society we had 10 members and now we have 96. At that time there were 36 Dexter cows in Northern Ireland. That has grown to 1,300 across the province. They suit the landscape and because of their size do not damage the environment. The Dexters like to eat the herbs from around the edge of the fields and that contributes to their delicate flavour.”
Unlike other breeds, the Dexter is always thoroughbred. The bloodline of every calf is recorded and can be traced back. The society members are all committed to producing strong, quality offspring and work together to maintain the purity of the breed.
Rathmullan House currently serves Dexter beef supplied by the Dill family as part of their quality local food programme. A number of other restaurants and hotels have expressed interest and the couple plan to hold a tasting event later this summer.
Cathy Dill said: “Our aim now is to see Donegal Dexter Beef being recognised for its unique taste and quality.”
Anyone who would like to find out more is invited to contact Cathy or Sam Dill on 087 2106939 or 086 328 1837.
(Source – Donegal Now – Siobhan Mc Namara – 21/07/2013)
Northern Ireland Dexter Society meeting in Rathmullen July 2013